1. Requirements for yarn quality of different fabric structures
Due to different fabric structures, there are requirements for yarn defects and the appearance rate of yarn defects on the fabric surface for weaving. Not all the same. Generally speaking, among pure cotton fabrics, extra-fine fabrics have higher requirements than medium-coarse fabrics; plain weave fabrics have higher requirements than twill fabrics; and thin fabrics have higher requirements than ordinary fabrics.
1. Requirements for yarn quality of plain weave fabrics
The density ratio of warp and weft yarns on the surface of plain weave fabrics is generally relatively close. The cloth surface is flat and the fabric structure is 1/1, so for the warp and weft yarns The requirements for evenness are higher, among which the requirements for evenness of wrong weft, coarse warp and uneven weft yarn are stricter.
2. Poplin fabric
The poplin fabric has high warp density and low weft density. The warp floating points on the fabric surface are granular, and the fabric structure is 1/1. It has higher requirements on warp yarn strength and stricter requirements on weft yarn evenness, slubs and neps.
3. Twill fabric
Twill fabric has a tight structure, high warp density, low weft density, stiff fabric, clear twill texture, and the fabric weave has 2/1, 3/1 and 2/2. It has higher requirements on the strength and evenness of the warp yarns, and stricter requirements on the evenness and neps of the weft yarns.
4. Satin fabric
1) The front of the Zhigong Zhigong fabric is mainly formed by warp yarns. There are often five three-flying Zhigong yarns and five two-flying Zhigong two yarns. The fabric is thick and has a tight twill effect. Some of the three-piece flying yarn Zhigong has soft and smooth requirements. The fabric weave has 5/3 and 5/2 warp satin weave. The main feature of Drigong fabric is that most of the warp yarns appear on the front side of the fabric, and the quality requirements for the warp yarns are relatively high (such as fewer defects such as tight warp, loose warp, neps, and loose ends).
2) Henggong The front of Henggong fabric is mainly made of weft yarn, and the cloth body is soft and smooth like silk. The fabric weave is 5/3 weft satin. The main feature of Henggong is that most of the weft yarns appear on the front of the cloth, and the quality requirements for the weft yarns are relatively high (such as fewer defects such as neps and weft shrinkage).
5. Extra fine fabrics
Extra fine fabrics refer to fabrics whose warp and weft are below 10tex (count 60 and above), and most of them are combed cotton yarn. Most of its fabrics are high-end products. Because the yarn is thin and the fabric quality requirements are high, the requirements for yarn defects such as rovings, slubs, evenness, neps, oil yarns, colored yarns and soot yarns are extremely strict.
6. Thin fabric
Thin fabric means that the warp arrangement tightness and weft thread arrangement tightness of the fabric are both below 50%, especially the weft arrangement tightness is between 45% and 45%. fabric below. Due to the sparse density of warp and weft yarns, various defects are highly visible on the cloth surface, especially defects in the weft direction, such as stripes, thick wefts, slubs, etc., which are more prominent.
7. Yarn-dyed fabrics
1) Mitong cloth: Mitong cloth is usually made of one colored yarn and one white yarn (or two warp yarns of different colors) in the warp direction. It also has both warp and weft directions. It is woven from one colored yarn and one white yarn (or two warp and weft yarns of different colors).
Due to its weaving characteristics, the yarn defects of Mitong cloth are obviously exposed on the cloth surface, and the requirements for the evenness, hairiness and neps of the yarn used are very high; 2) Youth cloth: Youth cloth is usually made of It is woven with one colored yarn in the warp direction and one white yarn in the weft direction. The warp and weft yarns are of the same thickness.
Chambray is similar to Mitong cloth. Since the yarn defects are obviously exposed, the yarn neps are required to be high.
, especially when doing single dyeing, the requirements for the twist, neps, evenness and hairiness of cotton yarn are very high.
2. Requirements for yarn quality without weaving tightness
Due to differences in fabric structure, the weaving tightness of different fabrics will also vary. Different weaving tightness will put different requirements on yarn quality.
Judging the difficulty of weaving a fabric based on its tightness:
Tightness = warp density/√warp count + weft density/√weft count
Plain weave 1/1 is difficult if it exceeds 38
Twill 2/1 is difficult if it exceeds 42
Yarn card and double-sided twill 2/2 3/1 More than 45 is difficult
Tribute 4/1 More than 47 is difficult
Difficult fabrics should be machined with strong yarns, and those with high density can use three-input reeds and four-input reeds. .
3. Requirements for yarn quality in different printing and dyeing processes
1. Bleached gray fabric
After the gray fabric is bleached, the surface of the fabric will be clear and white, so the surface of the fabric will be Residual defects are more likely to appear, especially some oil and colored defects (such as slub, oil flower yarn, oil yarn, colored yarn, coal ash yarn, “three silks” and foreign fibers, etc.) must be paid special attention to. Chemical fiber blended and pure textile products have higher whiteness, so they have higher requirements for the above-mentioned defects.
2. Printing blanks
Printing blanks are roughly divided into two categories: dyed background printing and white background printing. Due to the color pattern printed on the cloth, dyeing printing can cover up general oil stains, colored yarns, oily yarns, soot yarns, uneven yarns and other yarn defects and some weaving defects on the surface of the gray cloth; white background Due to the relatively large amount of whiteness on the fabric surface, printing requires stricter requirements for the above-mentioned yarn defects, and sometimes the requirements are even equivalent to those of bleached blanks.
3. Dyeing blank
Dyeing blanks are divided into two categories: light-colored blanks and dark-colored blanks. Because of its lighter color, light-colored blanks have higher requirements for oil stains on the cloth surface, yarn defects such as colored yarns, oil yarns, coal ash yarns, “three yarns” and foreign fibers; dark-colored blanks are dyed darker and require higher stains on colored yarns, oil yarns, etc. Yarn defects such as yarn, soot yarn and uneven evenness are highly concealed, but requirements for yarn defects such as snakeskin silk, neps and dead cotton are higher.
Conclusion: Yarns are not absolutely good or bad. Use the right yarn to make the right cloth. Only in this way can you make the best use of the material, without causing excess quality, and can well satisfy customers’ needs. The basic needs of the product.
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