The relationship between fabric use and density
The design of fabric warp and weft density should also be combined with the use of the fabric. For example, the characteristic of gauze fabric is that it is light and transparent. In order to maintain this characteristic, in addition to using warp and weft threads with a finer linear density, the warp and weft density should also be reduced. In order for the fabric to maintain good elasticity, not become weak or split, the warp and weft densities should be as balanced as possible and give the warp and weft yarns more twist. For another example, when designing trumpet silk, in order not to affect the sound quality and maintain excellent air permeability, the warp and weft density should also be reduced as much as possible. Another example is the decorative silk used for various kinds of pasting, such as silk for Chinese painting, fabric for book binding, wall silk, brocade for gift boxes, etc., which can greatly reduce the warp and weft density while ensuring the decorative effect. On the contrary, the density of silk taffeta used to make high-end dresses is usually much higher than that of ordinary plain weave fabrics to make the fabric hard and crisp and fully reflect the unique “silk sound” characteristics of silk. The theoretical density can be calculated based on the diameter of the thread and the staggered state of the tissue structure (wool fabrics have been introduced), but this calculated density is not completely useful because the production conditions of each production unit are different, and the above five density designs are There are influential factors that make a definite difference in actual density. In the actual production process, the weft density of the fabric is smaller than the warp density, mainly because: the raw materials used for the warp yarns are better, the tension on the machine is large, the yarns are flat, and the yarns are complete, which has a great impact on the texture of the fabric. Moreover, the warp thread density is generally thinner than the weft thread, which is beneficial to improving production efficiency. At the same speed, the weft density is small and the output is high. In addition, the small weft density facilitates production, and it is convenient to remove the weft when weaving defects occur. The ratio of warp density and weft density should be determined based on the linear density of warp and weft yarns, the organizational structure and the use characteristics of the fabric. For example, the ratio of warp and weft density of georgette is very close, generally not less than 10%, while the density of satin fabric is very high. The ratio of their longitude and weft densities differs by 50%-60%. Judging from the design of new varieties, if there are no extraordinary requirements, the weft density of plain weave fabric should be 20%-30% less than the warp density, twill weave should be 30%-40%, and satin weave should be about 50%. If the weft density of a single layer of fabric is greater than the warp density, it is unreasonable and should be avoided. However, heavy weft fabrics, especially jacquard fabrics composed of multi-color wefts, may have a weft density greater than the warp density. This is a structural requirement and can be treated as an emergency.
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