Take out the dye solution from the indigo vat, tie the middle part of the white cotton cloth tightly with a rubber band, fully soak it in the dye solution, and finally take out the water and rinse… In less than 10 minutes, the original white cloth turned into a middle part Blue cloth with white circular pattern.
This is a scene where Duan Hui, the inheritor of the Hebei Provincial Intangible Cultural Heritage Project “Gaoyang Folk Dyeing and Weaving Techniques”, demonstrates Chinese grass and wood dyeing and traditional tie-dyeing techniques. “The dye solution is extracted from indigo plants such as polygonum indigo and woad (isatis root). These indigo plants are the oldest dyeing materials.” Duan Hui said.
Gaoyang is China’s famous “Textile Town”. Gaoyang folk weaving and dyeing techniques began in the late Ming Dynasty and flourished in the late Qing Dynasty, with a history of more than 400 years. Today, traditional folk weaving and dyeing techniques have given way to advanced modern production techniques, but Gaoyang folk dyeing and weaving techniques, as the epitome of traditional Chinese textile art, are important relics of Chinese local art. In 2006, they were included in the first batch of provincial projects by Hebei Province. level intangible cultural heritage list.
53-year-old Duan Hui specializes in grass and wood dyeing, a folk dyeing and weaving technique in Gaoyang. According to her, plant dyeing is a traditional process of dyeing fabrics by extracting pigments from natural herbs such as flowers, vegetables, and Chinese medicinal materials. “Herbal dyeing materials are all natural plants, which are healthy and environmentally friendly.”
Colorful grass and wood dyeing materials, as well as floral fabrics of various colors, decorate Duan Hui’s studio of about 20 square meters into a colorful world. “Mugwort can be dyed yellow-green, madder can be dyed pink, fresh sophora rice can be dyed bright yellow, and dried sophora rice can be dyed greenish yellow… Even lotus pods and chestnut husks are common dyeing materials and are inexhaustible. .” Duan Hui said.
Although dyeing materials are common, the process is very complicated. According to reports, there are more than a dozen main processes from plant collection, extraction, filtration, soaking cloth, dyeing, and repeated dyeing, and each process needs to be subdivided. There are many dyeing methods, including raw dyeing, fermentation blue dyeing, heat dyeing or heat extraction cold dyeing, and persimmon dyeing (also called sun dyeing, the persimmon juice turns dark red after being exposed to the sun).
“Many visiting foreign friends are amazed when they see the skills left by these ancestors.” Duan Hui said.
Duan Hui has been exposed to traditional dyeing techniques from her ancestors since she was a child, but many of these experiences passed down are incomplete. In order to better pass on these traditional skills, she explored based on the experience of her predecessors, and at the same time consulted a large amount of literature. “I will check every book I can buy,” and she also established a laboratory to conduct experiments. So far, she has systematically mastered the techniques of plant and wood dyeing in more than ten colors.
“In recent years, with people’s pursuit of original life, the ancient skill of plant dyeing has gradually been regained and recognized by people.” Duan Hui said that there is already a national plant dyeing industry alliance in the industry. She herself is involved in the development of industry standards. Nowadays, gifts and private customization made of plant dyes are becoming increasingly popular, and many well-known brands have emerged.
In order to better pass on this traditional skill, in addition to accepting students, more and more primary and secondary school students have also entered Duan Hui’s studio, and she teaches the children the skills step by step. In recent years, she has also launched short videos and online live broadcasts. “A short video of persimmon dyeing has received 480,000 views. Netizens are very interested in plant dyeing.” Duan Hui said with a smile.
Duan Hui said that he is optimistic about the prospects of traditional grass and wood dyeing techniques. “The industry has just released a traceability code, and the whole process of planting dye materials, extracting dye materials, and dyeing can be traced. In the future, plant dyeing may be able to be like Like organic food, it has entered more and more people’s lives, and this is the best way to pass it on.”
</p
