1. Common textile calculation formulas are divided into fixed-length calculation formulas and fixed weight calculation formulas.
1. Fixed-length calculation formula:
(1), denier (D):D=g/L*9000 where g is the weight of the silk thread (grams), L is the length of the silk thread (meters)
(2), tex(number)[tex(H)]: tex=g/L*1000 Where g is the weight of the yarn (or silk) (grams), L is the length of the yarn (or silk) (meters)
(3), dtex: dtex=g/L*9000 Where g is the weight of the silk thread (grams), L is the length of the silk thread (meters)
2. Custom weight calculation formula:
(1), Metric count (N): N=L/G where G is the weight of the yarn (or silk) (grams), L is the length of the yarn (or silk) (meters)
(2), British count (S): S=L/(G*840) where G is the weight of the silk thread (pounds), L is the length of the silk thread (codes)
2. Textile unit selection conversion formula:
(1), the conversion formula of metric count (N) and denier (D): D=9000/ N
(2), the conversion formula between imperial count (S) and denier (D): D=5315/S
(3). The conversion formula between dtex and tex: 1tex=10dtex
(4), the conversion formula of tex (tex) and denier (D): tex=D/9
(5), Tex (tex) and British support Conversion formula for number (S): tex=K/S K value: pure cotton yarn K=583.1, pure fiber K=590.5, polyester-cotton yarn K=587.6 Cotton viscose yarn (75:25)K=584.8 Cotton yarn (50:50)K=587.0
(6), tex and metric numbers (N) conversion formula: tex=1000/N
(7), the conversion formula of decitex (dtex) and denier (D): dtex=10D/9
(8), the conversion formula of decitex (dtex) and imperial count (S): dtex=10K/S K value: pure cotton yarn K=583.1 pure fiber K=590.5 polyester-cotton yarn K= 587.6 Cotton viscose yarn (75:25)K=584.8 Cotton yarn (50:50)K=587.0
(9), dtex and metric Conversion formula for count (N): dtex=10000/N
(10), the conversion formula between metric centimeters (cm) and imperial inches (inch): 1inch=2.54cm
(22), the conversion formula between metric meters (M) and imperial yards (yd): 1 yard = 0.9144 meters
(12). The conversion formula of satin square meter weight (g/m2) and millimeter (m/m): 1m/m=4.3056g/m2
(13). The conversion formula between the actual weight of silk and satin: pound (lb)=weight per meter of silk (g/m)*0.9144(m/yd)*50(yd)/453.6( g/yd)
3. Detection method:
1. Visual inspection method of hand feel: This method is suitable for textile raw materials in the state of loose fibers.
(1) Cotton fiber is shorter and thinner than ramie fiber and other hemp craft fibers and wool fibers. , often accompanied by various impurities and defects
(2). Hemp fiber feels rough and hard.
(3). Wool fiber is curly and elastic.
(4) , Silk is filament, long and thin, with special luster
(5). Among chemical fibers, only viscose fiber has a large difference in strength between dry and wet states. .
(6). Spandex yarn has very high elasticity, and its length can be stretched to more than five times at room temperature.
2. Microscopic observation method: based on the longitudinal direction of the fiberUse surface and cross-sectional morphological characteristics to identify fibers.
(1), cotton fiber: cross section Shape: Round waist with mid-waist; Longitudinal shape: Flat belt shape with natural twist.
(2), hemp (ramie, linen , jute) fiber: cross-sectional shape: waist-round or polygonal, with a middle cavity; longitudinal shape: horizontal sections and vertical lines.
(3) Wool fiber: cross-sectional shape: round or nearly round, some with pith; longitudinal shape: scales on the surface.
(4), Rabbit hair fiber: cross-sectional shape: dumbbell shape, with pith; longitudinal shape: scales on the surface.
(5). Mulberry silk fiber: cross-sectional shape: irregular triangle; longitudinal shape: smooth and straight, with longitudinal stripes.
(6), Ordinary viscose fiber: cross-sectional shape: sawtooth Shape, skin-core structure; longitudinal shape: longitudinal grooves
(7), rich and strong fiber: cross-sectional shape: less tooth-shaped, or round, oval; longitudinal shape: surface Smooth.
(8) Acetate fiber: cross-sectional shape: trilobal or irregular zigzag; longitudinal shape: longitudinal stripes on the surface.
(9), Acrylic fiber: cross-sectional shape: round, dumbbell-shaped or leaf-shaped; longitudinal shape: smooth or striped surface.
(10), chlorine fiber: cross-sectional shape: nearly circular; longitudinal shape: smooth surface.
(22) Spandex fiber: cross-sectional shape: irregular shape, including round and potato-shaped; longitudinal shape: dark surface with unclear bone-shaped stripes.
(12), polyester, nylon, polypropylene fiber: cross-sectional shape: round or special-shaped; longitudinal shape: smooth.
(13), vinylon fiber: cross-sectional shape: round waist, sheath-core structure; longitudinal shape: 1~2 grooves.
3. Density gradient method: It identifies fibers based on the characteristics of different densities of various fibers.
(1), with fixed density gradient liquid, generally use two Toluene carbon tetrachloride system
(2) Calibration of density gradient tubes, the precision ball method is commonly used.
(3), measurement and calculation, put the fiber to be measured intoAfter deoiling, drying, and degassing pretreatment, the pellets are made into pellets and put into balance. The fiber density is measured based on the suspended position of the fibers.
4. Fluorescence method: using ultraviolet fluorescent lamp irradiation Fibers can be identified based on the different luminous properties of various fibers and the different fluorescent colors of the fibers.
The fluorescent colors of various fibers are specifically displayed:
(1), cotton, wool fiber: light yellow
(2), mercerized cotton fiber: light red
(3), Jute (raw) fiber: purple-brown
(4), jute, silk, nylon fiber: light blue
(5), viscose fiber: white purple shade
(6), glossy viscose fiber: light yellow purple shade
(7), polyester fiber: white light blue sky light is very bright
(8), vinylon optical fiber: light yellow purple shade.
5. Combustion method: Depending on the chemical composition of the fiber, the combustion characteristics are also different, thus roughly Distinguish the major categories of fibers
The combustion characteristics of several common fibers are compared as follows:
(1) Cotton, linen, viscose fiber and cupro fiber: close to the flame: do not shrink or melt; contact with the flame: burn quickly; leave the flame: continue to burn; odor: the smell of burning paper; characteristics of residue: A small amount of gray-black or gray-white ash
(2) Silk and wool fibers: close to the flame: curl and melt; contact with the flame: curl, melt, and burn; leave the flame: burn slowly and sometimes extinguish themselves; odor: the smell of burning hair; characteristics of residue: Loose and crispy black particles or coke-like
(3) Polyester fiber: close to the flame: melting; contacting the flame: melting, smoking, slow burning; leaving the flame: continuing to burn, sometimes extinguishing itself; odor: special aromatic sweetness; residue characteristics: Hard black ball.
(4) Nylon fiber: close to the flame: melting and shrinking; contacting the flame: melting, smoking; leaving the flame: self-extinguishing; odor: amino smell; residue characteristics: hard light brown transparent beads.
(5), Acrylic fiber: close to the flame: melting and shrinking; contacting the flame: melting, smoking; leaving the flame: continue burning, emitting black smoke;Odor: spicy; residue characteristics: black irregular beads, brittle.
(6), polypropylene fiber: close to the flame : Melting and shrinkage; contact with flame: melting, burning; leaving flame: continue to burn; Odor: paraffin smell; Residue characteristics: off-white hard transparent beads.
(7), spandex fiber: close to the flame : Melting and shrinking; contact with flame: melting, burning; leaving flame: self-extinguishing; Odor: peculiar smell; Residue characteristics: white gelatin.
(8), chlorine fiber: close to flame: melting; contact with flame: melting, Burns with black smoke; leaves the flame: self-extinguishing; odor: pungent odor; residue characteristics: dark brown lumps
(9), vinylon fiber: close to the flame: melting and shrinking; contacting the flame: melting, burning; leaving the flame: continue to burn , black smoke; odor: unique fragrance; residue characteristics: irregular burnt brown lumps
4. Common textile concepts:
1. Warp direction, warp yarn, warp density – the length direction of the fabric; the yarns in this direction are called warp yarns; the number of yarns arranged within 1 inch is the warp density (warp yarn density);
2. Weft direction, weft yarn, weft yarn density – the width direction of the fabric; the yarn in this direction is called the weft yarn, and the number of yarns arranged within 1 inch is the weft density (weft yarn density);
3. Density–used to indicate the number of yarns per unit length of woven fabrics, generally the number of yarns within 1 inch or 10 centimeters. my country’s national standards stipulate that the number of yarns within 10 centimeters should be used. The number indicates density, but textile companies are still accustomed to using the number of yarns in 1 inch.to represent density. For example, the commonly seen “45X45/108X58” means that the warp and weft yarns are 45 respectively, and the warp and weft density are 108 and 58.
4. Width – the effective width of the fabric, generally expressed in inches or centimeters. Common ones are 36 inches, 44 inches, 56-60 inches, etc., which are called narrow width, medium width and wide width respectively. Width, fabrics higher than 60 inches are extra wide, generally called wide cloth. Today, the width of extra wide fabrics in my country can reach 360 cm. The width is generally marked after the density. For example, if the fabric mentioned in 3 is added with the width, it will be expressed as: “45X45/108X58/60”, which means the width is 60 inches.
5. Gram weight – the gram weight of fabric is generally the grams of fabric weight per square meter. Gram weight is an important technical indicator of knitted fabrics. Woolen woolen fabrics usually also use gram weight as an important technical indicator. . The weight of denim fabric is generally expressed in “ounces (OZ)”, which is the number of ounces of fabric weight per square yard, such as 7 ounces, 12 ounces of denim, etc.;
6. Yarn-dyed weaving–called “first-dyed fabric” in Japan, which means that the yarn or filament is dyed first , and then use dyed yarn to weave fabrics. This fabric is called “dyed fabric”. The factory that produces dyed fabric is generally called a dyeing factory, such as denim, and most shirt fabrics are dyed. Cloth;
5. Textile fabric classification method:
1. Classification according to different processing methods
(1) Woven fabric: a fabric made of yarns arranged perpendicularly to each other, that is, transverse and longitudinal systems, interwoven according to certain rules on a loom. There are denim, brocade, panel cloth, Linen, etc.
(2) Knitted fabrics: Fabrics formed by knitting yarn into loops, divided into weft knitting and warp knitting. a. Weft knitted fabrics feed the weft threads into the working needles of the knitting machine from the weft direction. The yarns are bent into loops in order and inserted into each other. b. Warp knitted fabric is made by using one or several groups of parallel yarns to feed all the working needles of the knitting machine in the warp direction. , formed into circles at the same time
(3) Non-woven fabrics: made by bonding or sewing loose fibers. Currently, two methods are mainly used: bonding and puncture. This processing method can greatly simplify the process and reduce costs. , improve labor productivity and have broad development prospects
2. Classification according to the yarn raw materials constituting the fabric
(1) , Pure textile fabrics: The raw materials that make up the fabrics are all made of the same fiber, including cotton fabrics, wool fabrics, silk fabrics, polyester fabrics, etc.
(2) Blended fabric: The raw materials that make up the fabric are two or more different types of fibers, which are blended into yarn Made of polyester-viscose, polyester-nitrile, polyester-cotton and other blended fabrics
(3) Mixed fabric: The raw material of the fabric is made of single yarns of two types of fibers, which are combined to form strands. There are low-elastic polyester filaments and medium-length blended yarns. And, there are also polyester staple fibers and low-elastic polyester filaments mixed into strands, etc.
(4) Interwoven fabric: The raw materials that make up the two-directional system of the fabric are made of different fiber yarns, including antique satin interwoven with silk and rayon, and nylon interwoven with rayon. Fufang, etc.
3. Classification according to whether the fabric materials are dyed or not
(1) , White fabric: Fabric made from raw materials that have not been bleached or dyed. It is also called raw fabric in silk weaving.
(2), dyed fabrics: processed by bleaching and dyeing raw materials or fancy threads Ready-made fabrics, silk fabrics are also called cooked fabrics
4. Novel fabric classification
(1) Bonded fabric: It is made of two pieces of fabrics bonded back to back. The bonded fabrics include organic fabrics, knitted fabrics, non-woven fabrics, vinyl plastic films, etc. They can also be Make different combinations
（ 2) Flocking fabric: The fabric is covered with short and dense fiber fluff, which has a velvet style and can be used as clothing and decorative materials.
(3) Foam laminated fabric: foam plastic is adhered to the base fabric woven or knitted fabrics, mostly used as cold-proof clothing
(4) Coated fabric: Coated with polyvinyl chloride (PVC), neoprene, etc. on the base fabric of woven fabric or knitted fabric, with Excellent water resistance
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