Generally, there are three reasons that may cause this phenomenon, namely raw material problems, weaving problems and dyeing and finishing problems. When the spandex breaks after dyeing and finishing, the fabric sample should be disassembled and the shape of the spandex break should be carefully observed. If the breakpoint section of the spandex yarn is jagged, it means that the spandex yarn was damaged before dyeing and finishing. The fabric was stressed during the dyeing and finishing process, so the spandex broke; if the spandex yarn breakpoint section is spherical, it means that the spandex yarn was damaged during dyeing. There is a problem with the fusing or the quality of the spandex itself.
1. Raw material issues
Different spinning methods have different properties of spandex. For example, dry-spun spandex has good elastic elongation but slightly poor recovery rate, while wet-spun spandex has French-spun spandex, on the contrary, has poor elastic elongation but good recovery rate. Therefore, when choosing different brands of spandex yarn, you must first understand its characteristics, and then appropriately adjust the amount of spandex yarn input during weaving to avoid spandex breakage during weaving.
In addition, spandex is produced in different ways and its structure is also different. Spandex looks like a single filament on the surface, but it is actually composed of several filaments. For example, Hyosung brand 4.4 tex (40 D) spandex filament is composed of three monofilaments. If one of them is broken during weaving, It’s not easy to find. This requires workers to frequently pull down the fabric when inspecting the fabric on the open-width machine, and carefully check whether there are any small bright spots on the gray fabric. If there are any, it may be that the spandex is broken.
Spandex is very sensitive to temperature. Too low temperature will reduce the strength of spandex, especially in the north. A certain temperature must be maintained in the workshop. Before using spandex, spandex must be placed in a place with a higher temperature. Open the carton packaging and preheat the spandex first.
2. Weaving problems
In order to reduce costs, some customers blindly shorten the yarn length of spandex, so that the tension of the spandex yarn in the fabric is too high, which makes it easy to dye and finish. Therefore, the yarn length ratio of spandex and yarn should generally be controlled at about 1:3.
Sometimes spandex is damaged during weaving. This damage is invisible to the naked eye after the machine is off the machine. However, the spandex yarn will break during dyeing and finishing. For example, the surface of the knitting needle is not smooth enough, thus scratching the spandex filament, or the spandex yarn feeding position is incorrect, causing the tip of the needle hook to pierce the spandex filament and damage the spandex. This is especially important when weaving thicker spandex filaments.
In addition, if the machine oil on the equipment drips onto the cloth, it must be cleaned up in time, otherwise the spandex yarn will melt during dyeing and finishing.
Heke quality requires a setting process before dyeing. This process causes great damage to the spandex yarn. Since the glass transition temperature of spandex yarn is about 135°C, if the speed and temperature of the setting machine areIf the temperature is not well controlled, it is easy to break the spandex.
In addition, if the fabric has been treated with biological enzymes or the fabric is repaired, the spandex is prone to breakage during the dyeing and finishing process.
In short, there are many reasons for spandex breakage, but preshaping of gray fabric is the key, and the setting temperature and speed must be well controlled. In addition, we should also pay attention to the control of width and gram weight. If the length of the veil coil is long and the gram weight of the finished product is relatively light, it is necessary to increase the amount of spandex yarn input during weaving, so that it will not be pre-formed. Pull the spandex off. In addition, once the process is determined, do not frequently change the brand of spandex, so that the quality of spandex jersey can be guaranteed. Also, the determination of spandex content should not be based on other factories, but should be based on your own experience based on the spandex yarn you use. You should also increase or decrease a little spandex content during weaving according to the performance of spandex to avoid Spandex breakage occurs.
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