Yarn twist index and its calculation-twist direction
The twist direction refers to the twisting direction of the spinning yarn. It is described based on the inclination of the fiber or single yarn in the spinning yarn after twisting. The direction in which the fiber or single yarn tilts from the lower left to the upper right in the spinning yarn is called the Z twist direction (also known as backhand twist), because this tilt direction is consistent with the tilt direction of the letter Z: In the same way, the fiber or single yarn in the spinning yarn is tilted from the lower left to the upper right. The spinning yarn that tilts from the lower right to the upper left is called S twist direction (also known as smooth twist), as shown in Figure 2-12. Generally, single yarn has a Z twist direction, and strands have a S twist direction. Since the strands have been twisted many times, the twist directions are represented by z and s in the order of twisting. For example, zsz means that the single yarn has a z twist direction, the single yarns are combined with the first twist to be s twist, and then combined with the second twist to be z twist. For woven fabrics. The twist direction of warp and weft yarns can be formulated to form fabrics with different appearance, feel and strength. (1) In plain weave fabrics, if the warp and weft yarns are spun with the same twist direction, the fabric will have greater strength, poor luster, and a harder feel. (2) For twill weave fabrics, if the twist direction of the spinning yarn is opposite to that of the twill line, the twill line will be clear and full. (3) z-twisted yarn and s-twisted yarn are arranged at intervals in the fabric to obtain hidden grid and hidden stripe effects. (4) Z-twisted yarn and S-twisted yarn are combined and twisted to create a crepe effect.
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